Location, landscape and geography: stony soils, black island, high cliffs.
The 1,347 km² large Swedish Baltic Sea island Öland is located in the southwest of the more than 11,000 km² large province Kalmar län, is the second largest island of the country and is connected with the mainland by the more than six kilometer long Öland Bridge ("Ölandsbron"), which was built between 1968 and 1972. Between the mainland and the island is the strait Kalmarsund with the rocky island Blå Jungfrun, only 0.66 km² in size and sparsely covered with deciduous forest. In regional folklore, the "Blue Virgin" has been regarded as a meeting place for witches since the Middle Ages, which is why sailors often referred to it as Blåkulla blå ("Black Island") and avoided it. Blå Jungfrun is also the name of the surrounding national park and Natura 2000 area, which covers almost 2 km². Öland itself presents itself as a flat plateau of limestone, sandstone and shale, which is an arid zone covered mainly with small trees and shrubs and grasses. An impressive natural monument on the west coast are the 120 limestone columns Byrums raukar near Byrum, which are up to four meters high. In the south is the heath landscape Stora Alvaret, which covers a good 56 hectares. The agricultural landscape of southern Öland, which covers about 560 square kilometers and a third of the island, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Öland currently has just under 26,000 inhabitants living in the two municipalities of Borgholm and Mörbylånga. In the municipality of Borgholm in the north of the island, which covers an area of just over 681 km², there are currently just under 11,000 people living in 26 villages, hamlets and settlements. In Mörbylånga on the southern half of the island, there are currently about 15,000 inhabitants in 20 villages on an area of just over 668 km².
History, present and future: burial grounds, menhirs, long-distance trade, Thing site
The existence of hunters on Öland is considered to have been established as early as 9,000 years ago. Farmers settled on the island in the Neolithic period about 6,000 years ago. The passage graves in Resmo also date from this phase as the oldest of the more than 13,000 archaeological sites. In the Bronze Age, about 3,500 years ago, the inhabitants of that time traded with furs and skins in the Baltic Sea region. Partly elaborately worked metal objects from this era have been found in the large tumuli, such as in Blå rör near Borgholm and the cliff Köpings klint. Also typical of the entire island are the extensive burial grounds, among the largest of their kind are the sites at Gardstorp, Gettlinge, Klinta, Seby and Segerstad. A prehistoric Thing site was formed by the two limestone slabs of the Tingstad flisor in Stora Alvaret, each three meters high and 1.5 meters wide. In the time of the migration of peoples from the 4th to the 6th century the Germanic tribe of the Warnen/Variner left the island. At that time the large castles of Gråborg and Eketorp (Mörbylånga) and Ismantorp near Rälla and Långlöt (Borgholm) were built. In the middle of the 8th century there was a settlement at Köpingsvik (Borgholm) with about 4,000 inhabitants. At the same time, Öland is said to have belonged to the dominion of the legendary legendary figure "Sveakönig". From the 14th to the 17th century Denmark and Sweden alternated as regents over the island. Until 1801 the whole Öland was a royal hunting ground. The peasant population was forbidden to hunt and cut wood, as well as to keep dogs and weapons. The Böda uprising of 1850 was put down militarily. To feed the growing population in the 19th century, bogs were drained and turned into agricultural land. Nevertheless, many islanders emigrated to Denmark, Germany and the USA because of the poor economic situation. Today, fishing, agriculture and canning are the most important industries. For the future, many residents place hope in tourism, which is slowly but steadily developing.
Art, culture and attractions: Castles, churches, mills, lighthouses, museums.
Probably the most important sights on the sparsely populated island are the many historical buildings, some of which are still complete, others only in ruins. Among the oldest buildings are the approximately 20 Iron Age castles, 16 of which can still be visited today. In addition to the castles mentioned above, the castles of Bårby, Träby, Triberga and Sandby near Gårdby (Mörbylånga), as well as Hässleby, are well-known and popular destinations for interested tourists. The historic windmills on Öland also frequently serve as photo motifs. Of the once approx. 2,000 windmills in the 19th century, 400 are still preserved today. The windmills in Lerkaka, Störlinge, Sandviks Kvarn, Strandtorp and Jordhamn (Borgholm), some of which have been faithfully reconstructed, are particularly worth seeing. Guests of the island also like to visit the time-honored churches. Impressive and monumental sacral buildings can be found in Gärdslösa, Långlöt, Högby, Källa and Egby in Borgholm and Resmo in Mörbylånga. Also visible from afar are the lighthouses "Långe Erik" on the island of Stora off the northern tip of Öland and "Långe Jan" near Gräsgårds on the southern tip. Numerous artifacts from the island's long history can be admired as exhibits at the Öland Museum of Art and Cultural History in Himmelsberga and the Borgholm City Museum. In both houses there are also permanent exhibitions on rural culture on Öland. In the settlement of Skedemosse (Borgholm), the history of the bog of the same name, drained in the 19th century, is illuminated. A great pleasure for the whole family is a ride on the museum train "Böda Skogsjärnväg" through the Böda Ecopark at the northern tip of Öland.
Parks, gardens and green spaces: sheep and birds, Neptune's fields and enchanted forest
Since its opening in 1974, the 30,000 m² amusement and animal park "Ölands Djur & Nöjespark" near Färjestaden and Möllstorp in Borgholm has been well visited, especially during the summer months. In one of the five largest amusement parks in Sweden, visitors will find a zoo with about 100 animals as well as numerous rides, vacation homes, a restaurant and the modernly designed fun pool "Pirat Island". The sheep, which are ubiquitous in many places on Öland, can be easily observed on the shepherd's meadows in Ottenby in the south, where there was a large royal shepherd's barn and stud farm around the middle of the 16th century. Nearby is the fertile cultivated landscape of Mörbylångadalen, where cereals, potatoes, onions and even strawberries are still grown on a large scale. About 250 species of birds such as ducks, geese, swallows and hawks can be observed at the "Stora Frö" facility near Beijershamn and Färjestaden in Mörbylånga. Informative is the geological garden including rock path in Degerhamn, where a barbecue area with benches and tables invites you to linger. The Möckelmossen rest area near Resmo and Stenåsa offers a great view of the sea and the heath. Among the most beautiful of Öland's 75 nature reserves are Trollskogen ("Enchanted Forest") in Böda Ecopark, the boulder field of Neptuni åkrar ("Neptune's Fields") near Byxelkrok and the rugged Alvar landscape around Vickleby in Mörbylånga.
Festivals, celebrations and folklore: Thanksgiving, pumpkins and bonfires at the beginning of autumn
As an island strongly determined by agriculture, the harvest festival is traditionally celebrated extensively and exuberantly on Öland. In Sweden and on the island, the name for this event, which is very popular among the population, is "Mickelsfest" or "Mickelsmäss" after the end of the annual growing season. When the harvest has finally been harvested and the livestock returned to the barns in time for the onset of winter, farmers can breathe a sigh of relief, pause and take a well-deserved break. On Öland, the celebrations at Thanksgiving are also known as "Skördefest". After the festival was first announced on a large scale and successfully held in 1997, the event regularly attracts over 100,000 visitors to Öland every year on the last weekend in September. Now the largest harvest festival in Sweden, it has also been graced in the past by such prominent guests as Swedish Crown Princess Viktoria and former Minister of State Göran Persson. The 900 different activities in the villages include exhibitions, fairs, markets, festivals and concerts. The pumpkin, placed on a bale of straw, also serves as a symbol to indicate the location of each event. In many studios and galleries, for example, vernissages and installations are held, and culinary delicacies are offered in the farms and barns. Lush lighting and large fires illuminate the beginning of autumn and create a cozy atmosphere.
Leisure, sports and activities: hiking, biking, horse riding, sweets and boules
Öland is made for relaxed hiking thanks to its vast landscapes without many mountains and slopes. The beauty of the island is best explored on foot on one of the many well-marked trails. Particularly recommended are, for example, the Stora Alvar trail (13 kilometers) from Karlevi to Frösslunda, the Örnkullen (5.5 kilometers) by Lake Kritmossen and the Bårby-Källa trail (6 kilometers) around Lake Möckelmossen. Beautiful impressions are also offered by the Gösslunda trail (7 kilometers) near Resmo and Triberga, the trail from Tingstad Flisor to Penåsa (5 kilometers) and the Millersten trail (7.2 kilometers) on a former railroad embankment. The island also has a wide range of well-maintained cycle paths. The Ekopark trail (40 kilometers) through the Bödaskogen forest in Sveaskogs Ekopark, the Ölandsleden (Ölands Trail) network of 400 kilometers of side roads with little traffic, and the green signposted Sverigeleden (Sweden Trail) from the Öland Bridge to Grankullavik in the north are used frequently and with great pleasure by guests. A nice destination for a vacation with children is the "Karamellkokeri" (candy factory) in the former village school of Bredsättra on the east coast, where the colorful candy canes are still pulled by hand and also home-baked cakes are served. Öland's only indoor boules hall, the "Boulebahn" in Tjusby, has nine lanes, a snack bar serving alcohol and a meeting room. Horseback riders and horse lovers can take guided tours with the horses at "Western Adventures" in Smedby.
Gastronomy, nightlife and culinary: potatoes and fish fresh on the table
A typical dish for Öland, as well as for Småland in southern Sweden, are the potato dumplings "Kroppkakor" filled with bacon and onions and served with lingonberry compote, cream and hot butter, which can also be bought in packets in many supermarkets. A traditional and tasty dish is also the delicate casserole "Janssons frestelse" (Jansson's temptation) with anchovies, dill, potatoes, cream and onions, which used to be prepared mostly in the ovens of the glass blowing factories that were still hot in the evening. In addition to potatoes and cabbage, legumes such as peas and brown beans, which served as a cheap and durable food on sailing ships in the 18th century, are an important part of Swedish home cooking. Brown beans from certified organic farming have been recognized with a protected geographical indication since 2010 and, in addition to being canned, are also made into tasty bean chips. Of course, fresh fish straight from the sea or in smoked form must not be missing from any menu in Sweden, especially salmon and herring are available in restaurants in numerous delicious variations. "Gravad Lax" (fermented salmon) with sweet mustard sauce and "Strömming-Smörgås" (herring bread) taste especially good after long hikes or bike rides. There are currently about 60 bars, cafés and restaurants throughout Öland, with the most varied gastronomic choices in the larger towns of Borgholm, Färjestaden and Mörbylånga.
Economy, business and industry: Alum and lime were Öland's "gold".
Until the late 19th century, Öland was known throughout Sweden and Scandinavia as a place of origin and supplier of high-quality gray and red limestone as a building material. For example, Lund Cathedral in the southern Swedish province of Scania was built with stone from the island at the beginning of the 12th century. From the 14th century onwards, lime burning began in large quantities, and the grinding of the stones with horses and oxen running in circles, which was still common at that time, was replaced from 1850 onwards by the new wind-driven scouring mills. These were still in operation until the early 1930s, and the only surviving Swedish scouring mill is located in Jordhamn on the west coast of Öland. One of the last lime kilns heated with hard coal can be visited in the former fishing village and today's open-air museum Bruddesta near Äleklinta and Borgholm. Also from the alum production on Öland, which was so important in the 18th and 19th centuries, especially around Degerhamn at the Kalmar Sound, only the disused quarries and factories have remained until today. The naturally extracted alum salt was replaced by chemical production as a mordant for dyeing and tanning as well as in medicine as early as the middle of the 19th century.
Transport, infrastructure and accessibility: by land, by sea or by air
Travel to Öland by car or rental car is via the Öland Bridge between Kalmar and Färjestaden, mentioned above. The regular buses of the "Silverlinjen" line, which connect Stockholm with Öland all year round, also cross the bridge. The trains of the Swedish railroad "SJ" take you several times a day from Gothenburg as well as Malmö and Stockholm to the city of Kalmar on the mainland opposite Öland. Harbors with moorings for boats and ships are located in Byxelkrok, Böda, Källa, Sandvik, Kårehamn, Borgholm, Stora Rör, Bläsinge, Färjestaden, Mörbylånga, Degerhamn and Grönhögen. Airfields for private aircraft can be found in Byxelkrok as well as Borgholm and Sandvik. There are regular direct flights to Kalmar Airport from Stockholm-Bromma and Stockholm-Arlanda.